Lair Of The Multimedia Guru

November 5, 2017

Genetics history

Maybe a little off topic. But if one looks at DNA sequencing technology, in 2001 sequencing one humans genome cost 100 million USD, in 2015 it was down to slightly above 1000 USD. Today in 2017 you can buy a new DNA sequencer the size of a mobile phone for 1000 USD. Considering this, humankind today basically has the technology to sequence every human genome.
If someone asked me 10 years ago, what one can do about inherited genetic diseases or any thing else genetic. I would have said, wait 200 years till we have molecular-nano-technology and hope WW3 doesn’t happen. But in 2015 Chinese researchers edited human genes in embryos with some success. But still thats basically individual cells in a lab not an adult made of 1013 cells. But in fact similar methods have already been used and demonstrated to also work with individual organs in vivo in adult mice (not sure who did this first or when, but google finds quite a few things). And what i read few days ago according to interim results, non human primates, editing over 20% of liver cells successfully after a single dose and no adverse events with multiple dosing.
Now one wonders a bit, if one extrapolates this, where this tech will be in 5, 10 or 20 years. I think the next decades will be very interesting in this area.

Filed under: Off Topic — Michael @ 0:41

December 2, 2016

Printing on metal and glass

A while ago i had the “need” to make a non removable “no advertisements” “sticker. To do that i tried several different methods to print on and etch metal. The methods where roughly based on various youtube videos for making other things. Its a while ago so i hope i dont misremember the details, i should have written this immedeately…
All the methods start out with a laser printer and then transfer the toner onto the object as a mask for etching.

Cold toner transfer

The image to be transferred is printed on normal paper. the object its intended to be transferred to is placed flat on a table and is wetted with a mix of ethanol and acetone something like 8:5 vol. Pure ethanol will do nothing, pure acetone will smear the toner. Then the printout is placed on top avoiding air bubbles and some timespan like 20sec is waited for the toner to soften. Next the printout is firmly pressed by some means (i used 2 pieces of wood and clamps) for some time (i waited 3 min). next the pressure is removed and one waits for it to fully dry. Next it is soaked in water for some time (3min in my case) and then with luck one can peel the paper off while the toner still sticks to the object one wants to transfer it too. Depending on the toner and paper different procedures are likely optimal. Using this to place a mask onto a piece of scrap aluminum worked so-so, some parts of the toner didnt like sticking on my first attempts. Also this method is only suitable for creating a mask for further processing, you would not want to use this to print onto metal as a final step as there is still paper sticking to the toner.

img_4807-small

Hot toner transfer

The image to be transferred is printed on “toner transfer paper” (from ebay). The object to be printed upon is heated to slightly above the melting point of the toner (likely around 100°C) (i used a kitchen hot plate). Its important to get the temperature approximately right, too hot and the paper will be burnt. Also IR thermometers do not work accurately on shiny metal surfaces. The paper is then placed on the hot object and pressed firmly onto it (i used a silicon tube with a glass rod in it rolling over the paper several times). Next the object is taken off the hot plate and let cool. When cool the paper is removed, the toner mostly sticks fine, some individual tiny holes may be present in the transferred toner. To ensure good adhesion i reheated the object to >50°C above the melting point of the toner.

Heres an example of the result of this method using the last piece of scrap aluminum i had laying around:
img_0714-small

Printing multiple times (if you can get the alignment right) or otherwise increasing the toner density improves the results of both methods. Also if there are defects, tiny holes or other you want to paint over them with something before etching. You also can apply some surface treatment like sanding or brushing to the metal before the toner transfer …

Etching

For the aluminum scrap pieces i had i used simple water and table salt as electrolyte, both anode and kathode where aluminum, separated by Plastic clothespins and held together by sticky tape. After several tries i learned that lower currents and voltages seem to work better. that is for the small piece i had something like 1.8V and i think 100mA for 2 hours. (Note, if you attempt to repeat this, you do so at your own risk, Electrolysis of water and table salt produces different things depending on the condition and electrode materials. Other electrolytes may be a better choice even though NaCl seems safe in this setup.)
After etching the toner mask needs to be cleaned off (unless it fell off already which it sometimes did and sometimes it stuck really
well) it can be removed with acetone or with patience also with other random things.

The electrodes with the cut up pieces of a clothespin and tape:
img_4806-small

The results of several attempts
img_0732-smallimg_0666-small

Transfer without etching

One can of course also skip the etching and keep the “mask” as the final result even with color or even as a addition to a previous etching step. This also works on glass (if you can heat and cool it without it shattering)

The results from my attempts for this:
img_0735-smallimg_0673_small

After this i had no scrap pieces of aluminum left nor really time and the problem i was trying to solve (someone repeatly removing my fathers no advertisement sticker from his mailbox … to collect more free coupons or paper … solved itself as she stopped)

Filed under: FFmpeg,Off Topic — Michael @ 14:37

May 12, 2016

Mobile phones for seniors

My grandmother has 2 mobile phones, both identical, they have an old style numeric keypad, tiny monochrome display. They are both old and look like they were used a lot, one works. The other sometimes works, there thus was need to obtain a new phone. Both phones she has have been bought by herself many years ago, they were phones intended for seniors and honestly they are just shit in every way IMO even when they were new, they are even hard and awkward to use for someone young.
I thus bought a cheap android phone for her, i was very curious if that would work out, she is 89 years old and AFAIK never used a computer or smart phone before. Going for a cheap phone that fits the requirements was done as this was quite experimental and i was not sure if she would loose the phone in a week or someone would steal it maybe. The phone needed a big battery as recharging had been a problem with her other 2 phones or possibly their batteries have aged too much.
The chosen phone was a cubot note s, 4150mAh 5.5inch IPS display 2/16gb mem, 4core, 3G, dual sim, dual cameras, … for less than 90euro. The 2 things the phone doesnt have is a notification LED and LTE support. Neither appeared important for the intended use.

On the software side, I installed

  • Big Launcher and configured it so everything one needs is on the home screen, like buttons for directly calling family members.
    I also tried Phonotto, necta and other launchers Phonotto seemed not to fully work with android 5.1, occasionally dropping one out of the dialer without ending the phone call, which made it not ok. I chose big launcher as i had to chose one and it seemed mostly ok
  • Missed call reminder, Which allows all kinds of vibration and led flash and screen on/off based notifications (due to missing notification LED on the phone) But even if it had a LED the bright LED flash and vibration should be better
  • Ultimate Caller ID Screen HD, With all extra buttons disabled and the the screen with just simple buttons for accepting a call and hanging up.
  • quick snap, as a simpler camera app but this wasn’t used sofar AFAIK
  • automate, Used for giving spoken low battery alerts at <30% and similar if the phone charging is interrupted before reaching 60%. Some testing though showed that it did not work reliable (it got stuck when there was no internet connection) and thus was not enabled when i gave the phone to my grandmother, we also were unsure about the notification activating in inappropriate situations

The above, i believe was the initial set of apps when i gave the phone to her, the biggest problem was surprisingly switching the phone on (the lockscreen was also entirely disabled), the button is basically invisible under the silicon protector thingy that comes with the phone. Some sticky patch cut into arrow shape stuck onto the phone helped though.
When we called her on the phone for the first time after leaving she did not succeed picking it up, even though she could do it when we where there after some tries. So it seemed a failed experiment, but a few days later and corrected volume settings she made multiple phone calls with it alone :)
Further improvements we did were, that we installed some software to lock the volume settings (cant remember its exact name, but there are multiple that do the job), the volume buttons are next to the power button. Disabling the “telephone answering machine” as it picks up too quick and only adds the problem of dealing with missed calls, which was a problem with her previous phones already.Call Auto Answer & ReadItToMe configured so it automatically picks up calls from family members after 10 seconds. And we also enabled speaker-phone by default. We also considered to install Gravity Screen – On/Off but as she managed to switch the phone on it seemed more a potential way to switch it on unintended.

One thing that kind of annoyed me alot while configuring things is finding apps that arent full of ads. It seems everything for android these days is either spyware, ad-ware, or costs money. I wish the play store would have a way to search for things that are good old free no hooks attached type of ware. But i guess google wouldnt like how they then would have to mark their own apps.

Also for the case of older people with little smart phone experience, a somewhat more integrated UI for android would be nice. Not needing to install a dozen things that might interact badly or that then dont work with the latest android version.
Something that when randomly shaking or pressing buttons on a phone in standby mode would display an arrow pointing to the power on button. Some reliable and unobtrusive low battery notification would be nice too, and that one not just for seniors, the dim red notification leds are kind of easy to miss. Some easy always available help button that can explain the available buttons/options on any screen, …

Filed under: Off Topic — Michael @ 2:00

January 11, 2016

Thermoelectric cooler

A while ago searching around on ebay for geeky/nerdy toys i found some Thermoelectric coolers/peltiers for around 2$ with free shipping. So i bought a few of them …
IMG_0474-small

They all worked fine, one had a hole in its silicon sealant though which ive “fixed” with hot glue (first heated the element up to reduce moisture inside then re-sealed it), i dont remember why i didnt use silicon …

I experimented a bit around with 1 and 2 stage TECs on a old heat-sink + fan that was laying around, the best combination interestingly was 2 stages first at 12V 2nd at 5V. though the gain for 2 stages over 1 stage was disappointingly small, IIRC a little over 10°C. Its also interesting to note that my chinese IR thermometer was not able to measure the temperature of the frosted top, it displayed way too low values. Actual real lowest value achieved was measured with a Type K thermocouple, frozen onto the TEC in a drop of water and frosted over for a while (the snowy stuff that forms should provides some extra isolation).
IMG_0377-small
The 2 TECs in above are attached with cable ties, which was very limiting in what could be placed on top

For some reason yesterday i decided to test using the TECs for heating instead of cooling by reversing the input polarity.
That indeed worked and the same device happily boiled drops of water. I didnt think too deep about what the maximum temperature for the TECs was, i didnt expect failure below 180°C, but the top element died at probably around 120-130°C (K type thermocouple in drop of oil on top).
Not entirely believing the apparent facts, i picked another unused separate TEC1-12706 and retried, heating it to 160°C
which seems to have done no harm to it. Though i used the IR thermometer for measuring the 160°C, i should retry this probably with both thermometers but then according to the ebay article page they are max 70°C ;)

Breaking my TEC cooler toy i took it and the failed TEC element apart, Its failure mode was that it showed >10megohm resistance. Cutting its sealant away, it looked like this:
IMG_0460-1280 IMG_0461-1280

And separating it further with a tiny bit of heat and force (probably only heat was needed)
IMG_0463-1280

Also interestingly none of the remaining individual elements tested open, they all had low resistance. I know nothing about TEC failure modes but i wonder if one little part had just cracked from the heat and maybe mechanical stress. They are all in series so one cracking the wrong way should show similar symptoms …

To rebuild the TEC2-toy now ver2, i placed a piece of aluminum on top and tried to attach it with cable ties, but this proofed frustratingly unstable
IMG_0464-1280

My next idea of fixing it with screws, bolts, nuts or such wasnt an option as i lacked parts of sufficient length with non ridiculous diameter. So i cut 2 pieces of the same aluminum stuff and fixed it with 4 springs created out of a single larger spring separated by some foamy stuff for isolation:
IMG_0465-1280 IMG_0468-1280 IMG_0467-1280

In action:
IMG_0470-1280

Also i tested cooling and heating of a glass container with a liquid. (for cooling a drop of water was used as thermal component between glass and aluminum for heating a drop of minnaral oil). Without isolation, the temperature fell to +9.5°C in 1 hour and with some isolation to prevent the warm air from the fan hitting the container, to +2°C in another hour. Iam quite sure sub zero is achievable with a real attempt to prevent coolness loss but i kind of lost patience.
on the hot side i achieved 67°C with the TEC itself being at around 100°C, so if one would risk damaging the unit it might be possible to boil water in a container with it.

Filed under: Electronics,Hardware,Off Topic — Michael @ 5:00

December 25, 2015

Bluetooth tracking devices/tags/”key” finders battery lifetime

6 weeks ago (11th november) i switched both the tags i have on and put them in the same drawer in my kitchen, i then tried to connect to them when i remembered about it and tried to make them beep remotely. the itag failed to connect the next day but worked again after removing the battery for a moment, the day after that it failed again and no longer recovered after removing the battery (which was at 2.897V but apparently could not supply enough current anymore for the tag to power up), on last connection it showed 100% battery. Powering the itag off a bench power supply showed that it still worked fine.
Meassuring its current draw, shows 3uA when switched off, and around 1.1mA when on, considering that the tag has to be on to be of any use, that renders it useless as it eats batteries too quick.
the smart finder / “small lovely” continued working till when i tried it yesterday when a connection was no longer successfull, pushing its button it still produced a silent click which on repeated presses got weaker. so it too used up its battery after about 4-6weeks (i had last tried it 2 weeks ago when its battery was shown at 100% in bluthooths stuff).
Meassuring its current consumption, it draws 2.4uA when off, and when on after some initial higher draw fluctuates between 2.7uA and around 88 uA with an apparent average of 39uA.
Note, the current draws depend significantly on the voltage for the itag at least (i tested at about 3V), also the uA meassurements where at the edge of what my multimeter could show so they should all be considered approximate.

In summary, the itag i got eats its battery in 2 days, the smart finder thingy in about 4-6 weeks. I would have tested more tags but these where the only 2 i received. another one i ordered off ebay was lost in shipping apparently

Filed under: Electronics,Off Topic — Michael @ 23:20

November 27, 2015

Modifying a 80-250V AC Volt/Amp/Power meter to make it work for 0-250V AC

A while ago i bought an old variac on ebay, it was in good shape but lacked any meter, originally that model had a analog voltmeter or something. That was missing, some cut wires sticking out of where it was. As i got it it also had a 6.5Amp fuse in a fuse holder marked as 4A and its output wires connected straight bypassing the fuse.
When i bought it my plan was to stick a cheap digital meter to it, which is what i did and also a modern and correct “fuse”.
IMG_0395-1280
The meter i found and got supported 80-250VAC, i failed to find one supporting AC voltages down to 0V. I originally had not planed to modify it, as it didnt seem a big issue, but it was just annoying that around 70V it dropped out and displayed junk and then went dark.
IMG_0397-1280
Inside it looks like this:
IMG_0398-1280IMG_0399-1280
I saw 2 obvious ways to make this work with lower voltages, first is to make its AC->5vdc supply work with a wider range of AC voltages, the other is to split the voltage sensing off the supply. As my variac provides around 250VAC in addition to the variable and isolated output, using that seemed to be the easier solution.
But before i continue, a warning, do NOT try this unless you understand what you are doing, mains voltage can be dangerous and can injure or kill. Also not all similar looking such meters are neccessary identical and this modification might result in undefined behaviour in that case.
The voltage is sensed through R3 which is 1Mohm, removing it:
IMG_0400-1280
Results in a working amp meter with 0V:
IMG_0401-1280
Next we need an additional connector for the separate AC power and AC sense input, to get that we just need to clear 2 from solder and cut the 2 connected pins on the other side using a file. Note, if you try this modification double check that the new freed up pin is not connected to anything else by some tracks below, it wasnt in the meter i had but that doesnt imply its not in yours.
IMG_0403-1280
Now its tempting to use the same or a new 1meg ohm resistor for the new sense wire added below (and i did and it worked) but this is probably not safe, first you should clear the conductive parts of the logo which are below, off the board and use 2 resistors in series as there is about 230VAC over it, yes it was already before any modifications but still.
IMG_0405-1280
IMG_0416-1280
You can also slightly adjust the value of this resistor to adjust/finetune the volt-meter.
The other side of the resistor is connected with a mod wire to the newly freed up pin on the other side. Again using a file to make some cut in the board to nicely route the wire around.
IMG_0408-1280
The new connector is then connected like this:

  1. Variac secondary tap 1
  2. Variac secondary tap 2 and Load/Output connection A
  3. Variac secondary tap 3
  4. Load/Output connection B

Testing, works:
IMG_0412-1280

Filed under: Electronics,Hardware,Off Topic — Michael @ 0:11

November 9, 2015

Bluetooth tracking devices/tags/”key” finders

A while ago in coverity while fixing FFmpeg bugs there was a some kind of Nominate a bug, win a prize thing, i didnt ever nominate one but this was when i learned about the existence of tile which would have been the prize one could win. A BLE device that can be attached to something valuable and that can then be searched and found with a recent android or iPhone, or the other way around using the device to find your phone.
This seemed potentially useful to me, though i personally have never lost my keys or phone for more than a few seconds, i know someone who does have that problem. So i thought buy a tile or 2 they might come in handy for something but then i saw the price, non replaceable, non rechargable battery and thought ok, didnt expect someone would be that lame. I guess one should not expect any company not to attempt to rip its customers off to the maximum extend possible.

Lucky there are many similar devices, so the goal was to find the cheapest that works and is not just tied to a ridiculous business model. So i bought some of the cheapest i could find (they of course all have user replaceable batteries …)
First is something that identifies itself as

ITAG

IMG_0383-1280IMG_0384-1280
The above one is one example of these, they come in many different shapes, cost less than 5$ with free shipping. The first i got had a different shape and came with a dead battery and also ate a new battery within a day. The second i got is the one pictured above, which worked more or less.
When Off, A long press on its large surface switches it on with 2 beeps.
When On or connected a long press switches it off with a long beep (this renders it useless as its easy to press by mistake)
When on but not connected its led also continuously blinks, draining the battery but making finding easier, it also at least once hanged and required the battery to be disconnected for a moment to function again.
On the BT protocol side setting immedeate alert to 2 results in 30 beeps and led blinks, setting link loss to 0 or 2 has no effect, the device always beeps on unintentional connection losses as far as i could figure out. pressing the button results in a notify with value 0x01 on 0000ffe0-0000-1000-8000-00805f9b34fb / 0000ffe1-0000-1000-8000-00805f9b34fb.
To make the itag only blink and not beep on immedeate alert, 0000fff0-0000-1000-8000-00805f9b34fb/0000fff1-0000-1000-8000-00805f9b34fb can be set to 0x00, this is remembered over disconnects but not over switching the tag off. All other values seem to cause blinking and beeping.
To identify it this may be helpfull:

  • 0x2A29: CEVA
  • 0x2A24: BT 4.0
  • 0x2A25: 12x07x2012
  • 0x2A27: SM-1
  • 0x2A50: Bluetooth SIG Company: Ceva, Inc. (formerly Parthus Technologies, Inc.)
    Product Id:13330
    Product Version: 26369

Smart Finder

IMG_0380-1280IMG_0386-1280
The above is another sub 5$ tag, which appears identical (minus the logos) to tags on amazon from chirotronix and ikee.
The official software for android (“small lovely”) has a rather long list of unneeded permissions like for the previous tag (“iTracing”) but for this theres also no inofficial sw i could find for android which supports these tags, which is why i reverse engeneered the protocol
When off a long press switches it on with a long beep, to switch it off again 5 rapid short presses are needed (resulting in 3 beeps).
When in On mode pressing the button results in 2 beeps this also causes the “#255 Manufacturer Specific Data” to change from 0x58,0x48,0x52 to 0x58,0x48,0xFF for a few seconds, apparently to identify which of potential several devices one wants to connect to. Switching the device off also seems not possible while it is connected. On connect and disconnect its led flashes once.
Protocol wise neither “link loss” nor “immedeate alert” have any effect that i could identify. To make the device beep and blink a command must be written to 0000fff0-0000-1000-8000-00805f9b34fb / 0000fff1-0000-1000-8000-00805f9b34fb. A single 0xAA results in some short beeps and blinking. Its also possible to write a 5 byte command 0xAA 0x03 count duration1 duration2. The count is the number of beeps, the 2 durations are the beep and non beep durations in milli seconds, i dont know what the 0x03 does or if there are other interesting commands.
To detect button presses the device can send notifies on 0000fff0-0000-1000-8000-00805f9b34fb / 0000fff1-0000-1000-8000-00805f9b34fb with a 3 byte value, it is either (0x01 xx 0x00) xx = number of short button presses or (0x02 0x00 xx) xx = number of seconds button is hold
To identify it this may be helpfull:

  • 0x2A29: SIGNAL
  • 0x2A24: BT A8105
  • 0x2A25: 00001
  • 0x2A26: F4F5V02
  • 0x2A27: A8105F4
  • 0x2A28: 1030627

The name of teh device is “AMIYJ_5B68”, i dont know if this is true for all these devices, google seemed not to have any hits on that.
It seems using a A8105, (the ITAG seems using a BK3431) datasheets can be found with google.
Interestingly theres also a entry for “Heart rate” on the bluetooth level, so i guess this shares some code with some other devices.

IMG_0382-1280

Hope something above is useful to someone

Update: 2015-11-09: corrected itags link loss behavior
Update: 2015-11-10: Added names of the official apps
Update: 2015-11-14: Added itag blink only info (found by and thanks to Joachim Schäfer)

Filed under: Electronics,Hardware,Off Topic,Reverse Engineering — Michael @ 3:16

July 7, 2014

Toothbrush

Its quite a while since ive updated my blog, and indeed ive a few things i wanted to put up but have always had something more important to do, well. Today, ive finally decided to skip doing important things and put up something really unimportant.
A while ago I was reading the manual of a toothbrush, an electric ehm “sonic” toothbrush. It said something like 40000 revolutions per second. Reading that and looking at the humble, el-cheapo toohbrush i didnt belive it, so i had to find out how fast the thing vibrates (it actually doesnt do full revolutions). Using my soundcard was out of question as that wouldnt work above 24khz. So i used a old analoge osciloscope that i got for 15 euro from a local flea market a while before.
IMG_4563small
You can see on the scope, the vibration of the toothbrush head as well as a 1khz reference square wave. The trick is that the toothbrush head is made of some kind of plastic and by rubbing it against something, it becomes electrostatically charged. Just holding the scope probe near then shows the movement of the head.
We can see on this that in about 6 cycles of the 1khz signal we have 2 cycles of the toothbrush, which would give ~1000/3 hz.
Which is 120 times off from 40000, if one considers both ends of the vibration instead of a full cycle its 60 times off. And at that point i looked at the manual again and realized it said 40000 U/min not sec :)
Which proofs my way of measuring it is quite spot on, but my way of reading the manual isnt.

Filed under: Off Topic — Michael @ 4:23

January 16, 2014

Rant about gmx

Ive been using gmx since over 12 years for my email. And until recently gmx did a fine job at running a SMTP and a POP3 server. But it appears this is slowly changing. A few month ago their SMTP server stoped accepting mail with the verbose message: “550-Requested action not taken: mailbox unavailable\n550 Reject due to policy restrictions.”. It turned out that gmx refused localhost as domain to the EHLO SMTP command. They require a fully qualified domain name now right? no, not really, any random string seems to work just not localhost. My attempt to contact gmx about this, lead to no reaction.

The next thing was this: “550-Requested action not taken: mailbox unavailable\n550 invalid DNS A/AAAA resource record”, yes thats right, gmx rejected outgoing mail because the poor guy had not set up a webpage on the domain that he used to receive mail on. This one btw affected multiple people i tried to communicate with, not just one.

But hang on it was just starting, next there was “451 Requested action aborted: local error in processing’ errormsg=’recipient address nicolas george normalesup org not accepted by the server”

Also it has to mentioned that gmx at around that time (maybe 1-2 month before or so) started to randomly put “*** GMX Spamverdacht ***” in the subjects of random received mails even though i always had and have all spam filtering disabled at gmx (mainly because their filters never worked).
So yeah another try at complaining to gmx about that, and yes this time there was a reaction, i got a mail from them “GMX Sicherheit: Vorsorgliche Sicherheitssperre Ihres GMX Postfachs!” they locked my account and provided me with a few tips on how i can scan my windows system for viruses. Hello gmx, i dont use windows.

My next attempt to contact them and now find out why they locked my account lead to just a polite (probably automated) mail with a link to their payed and expensive phone support. Seriously, locking someones account and refusing to tell them why unless they pay. And locked btw means SMTP was not working, POP3 still worked and so did the web interface where one is asked to change ones password which then unlocks the account again. Maybe iam just missing the point but what sense does that have.

Was that all? no, it seems gmx also reduced the maximum size of mails as a 21mb mail i tried to send to 3 people could not be sent over gmxs smtp server and with a different smtp server it bounced from reimar who also uses gmx so it also could not be received. Iam pretty sure i did transfer bigger things years ago.
Ahh and i almost forgot: “5.7.1 : Recipient address rejected: Your MTA is listed in too many DNSBLs; check http://www.robtex.com/rbl/82.165.159.40.html”, Yes thats gmx being in the DNSBL lists at the time that happened. Now just why was i not surprised by that …

Did anyone really read this far down ? Well as gmx slowly goes from well working to something else, iam forced to find alternatives to handle email. So i got this one: michael@niedermayer.cc, iam still using the gmx addy though, feel free to use either if you want to mail or spam me. I guess if these issues with gmx continue then ill have to start updating my mail address everywhere …

2014-01-26 Update

Heres an example of the random marking of mails as spam, the 2 mails where simple git patches send to ffmpeg-devel, sent by me, at the same time from the same computer and their content should be quite similar and should not have triggered any properly trained bayesian filter.

85260 N 0126 2:11 Ronald S. Bultj (1.3K) [FFmpeg-devel] [PATCH] vp9: disable use_last_frame_mvs on resolution change (scalable).
85261 N 0126 2:30 Ronald S. Bultj (8.9K) [FFmpeg-devel] [PATCH] vp9: fix invalid ref frame w/h on size change.
85262 N F 0126 14:49 To FFmpeg devel (1.2K) [FFmpeg-devel] [PATCH 1/2] avcodec/libfdk-aacenc: change MODE_7_1_REAR_SURROUND to map to AV_CH_LAYOUT_7POINT1
85263 N F 0126 14:49 To FFmpeg devel (0.9K) ??>*** GMX Spamverdacht *** [FFmpeg-devel] [PATCH 2/2] avcodec/libfdk-aacenc: change MODE_7_1_FRONT_CENTER to map to AV_CH_LAYOUT_7POINT1_WIDE_BACK

Also ive sent gmx a link to the blogpost, no reaction from them so far

Filed under: Off Topic — Michael @ 4:33

January 12, 2011

Unidentified flying insect

I found 2 Insects looking like this in my appartment:

Anyone knows what it is, its about 10cm large from leg tip to tip if it stretches out and capable of flight, seems not to have any inteligence to speak of. I could catch it and throw it out of my appartment but iam affraid its too cold outside?

Anyone knows what it eats? How long it lives?

Filed under: Nature,Off Topic,Pictures — Michael @ 3:52
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